Tasting Notes: Opaque black core, dark red rim.
Nose: An aromatic assault / surge / eruption of soy, hoisin, balsamic reduction… coiled around a core of kirsch and fresh raspberry.
This propulsion is crammed with tell-tale barrel ferment, V.A. and formic Grange markers – all in balance, all respectful of fruit and oak.
And yet, so ‘classy’ – a brightness, a sheen, a gloss, a raciness – belying both age and upbringing (élevage).
No gaps, a densely-packed structural continuum.
Not huge, not massive, yet taut, muscular, feisty. A black palimpsest - black fruits, black liquorice, black pudding, black fig, black cardamom....
Granitic chewy tannins linger and coat; oak all but fully concealed, submerged beneath a tannin/oak/acid/flavour tsunami.
Fruits? Where to start in this entanglement? Time please.